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This blog is about our trip November, 2021 trip to Peru.  Highlights included a fly over of the Nazca Lines, a trip to the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu, and a cruise in the Amazon River Upper Basin.

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11-12-21 – Flight to Peru

Jessica and Liam picked us up at 7:30 for a drive to the airport.  We unloaded and had lots of hugs.  Liam is off to scout camp today and we are off to Peru via Dallas.

 

Photos of Vegas from the plane.



11-13-21 – Lima and Pachacamac

We arrived in Lima at about 1:30 am.  They are only a 3 hour difference from the West Coast so that isn’t too bad…just a very long flight.  Neither of us slept much.  It took the luggage a long time to appear. 

Once we were outside, we quickly found our guide, Maria, and driver…and we headed towards our hotel.  Unfortunately, our drive took us along the beach drive (too dark to see anything) and at some point they had closed the road.  So, then it was wandering the streets to get to the other route.  Upon arrival at Casa Andrina we had a problem…no reservation.  Turns out we were at another Casa Andrina a couple blocks away.

We didn’t hit the bed until 3:30AM.  We both slept well but not long enough.  We were up in time for a late breakfast and then met Maria in the lobby at 12:00 for a short day of sightseeing.

Parts of Lima are pretty uninteresting but we did drive through a couple of very pretty older areas.  We were also rather surprised to see that tuk tuks (which one sees all over Asia) are in widespread use in Peru.


We ended up in a massive backup at a toll plaza.  Just like the Oakland-Bay Bridge on a bad commute day.  But with an added twist of many vendors wandering through the cars selling beach toys (the road heads to a nearby beach), beach mats, sun glasses, snacks, ice cream bars and many other items.  




and someone was hawking some rather realistic looking toy rats.  Ugh.

On the drive out of town we got glimpses of some neighborhoods climbing the hills around Lima.  The hills were packed.


The hour drive took us to the Pachacamac, an archaeological complex dating back to the civilizations before the Incas, around 200 AD. The god Pachacamac was known as the “Maker of the Earth”.  The area covers almost 1500 acres.

History Lesson for today - Ancient Cultures.

Words can't describe how much I learn from my travels.

I have always loved history...so much so that I seriously considered being a history major in college.  As I've started traveling extensively I've come to realize just how abysmal and narrow the lessons, taught as "World History", were when I was in high school.  It was called "World History" but it was really the history of Western Civilization...i.e. the history of the world as seen through the eyes of Europeans, their colonization (subjugation) of much of the rest of the world, and their descendants.  Admittedly that class was taken way too many years ago but still...

When it came to Central/South American History we learned about the Spanish and the Portuguese conquests of the Incas and the Mayans and the Aztecs.  And then it was how eventually the people of Central and South America threw off the yokes of Spain and Portugal.  

Did you know that there were highly-advanced civilizations all over South America that far predated the Incas?  The Caral civilization of Peru developed more than 5000 years ago, in parallel with those in Egypt, China and Mesopotamia.

Then it was the Mochica, Lima and Nazca civilizations in Peru and the Mayans in Central America that flourished while Europe was being invaded by the barbarians.  And the Imperio and Huari ruled Peru while Western Europe languished during the Dark Ages.  

I'd never heard of those older civilizations until coming to Peru.  They have such a huge history that vastly predates the arrival of the Europeans.  What else did we never learn about in school? So much rich and fascinating history that we never learned.

So these photos are of Pachacamac, the Temple of the Sun) and dedicated to Pacha Kamaq, the Creator of the World. The  complex dates from around 200AD, was built by the Lima Culture, later came under the Huari Culture ,and eventually was folded into the Inca religion as a major pilgrimage site and center of religion and power.  When the Spanish arrived they learned of the  power and influent of the city of Pachacamac so they  plundered the site (of course), destroyed all the religious objects…destroyed buildings, plundered and forced the population to convert to Catholicism. 

The area is now under extensive archaeological excavation.  And visitor's like us get to see and learn so much.  I do so love travel. 😍✈️

The Inca’s built the Temple of the Sun here.  






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More Pachacamac
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Unfortunately, we didn’t have a lot of time (the site closed at 3:00 pm and we had advocated for a late start so we could get some sleep) so we focused on touring the site and did not visit the museum.  

We ate dinner in the bar of the hotel…bar food.  They didn’t have much of a menu.  Shortly after dinner we hit the bed.  Needed a pretty early night as we were both very jetlagged. 


11-14-21 – Lima City Tour

We are getting a city tour today.  Turns out that Lima sits high on a cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean...along most of its length It is so high up that it's official elevation is 453 feet. That is for a city right on the ocean. Talk about dramatic cliffs. The city is also called Grey Lima because of the almost constant ocean mists that lay over the city. For being so close to the equator it is very like San Francisco, CA...rather cool, if not cold. Take a sweater but be ready for humidity because of those mists.

Our first stop on a city tour was a park overlooking the cliffs.  The park is Parque del Amor (Love Park).  It looks like the baby brother of Parc Guell in Barcelona, Spain...the tile work is very similar to that of Antoni Gaudi's, who designed Park Guell and the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona.




And a love park wouldn't be complete without the requisite hundreds of padlocks placed on a fence by couples...to symbolize their everlasting love. 

And there was a statue, called El Besso (The Kiss), of a gigantic couple kissing.  We should have visited on Valentine's Day.  Or maybe our Anniversary.  


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More Love Park
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We had some views of the ocean front and the cliffs …very dramatic.  


Nearby was a valley that cut through the city.  Since the city gets very little rain they have been able to plant and build in this valley.  Very pretty.

Next stop was the monastery and Church of San Francisco, monastery and catacombs.  No photos allowed in the monastery or catacombs, unfortunately.  There are currently about 35 priests that reside there. 





We bought post cards of some of the interior places where we couldn't take pictures.


By the time we finished the tour the service had let out so we wandered through the church a bit.  It is pretty much red and white…apparently common in the Andes.  The red is Andes Red.




We finished just in time to make it over to the Government Palace for the daily changing of the guard.  While some elements are comment to others we have seen…military band playing, two troops of soldiers facing off…it was a bit different in a number of ways from others we have seen.  The troops occasionally did yells, there was much twirling of the rifles and it seemed more “choreographed” than others.  Occasionally they kneeled or stood in waves, arms did some flapping, and other things.  They also marched or marched in place almost continuously for 20 - 30 minutes or so.  Saw a few women in the groups too…good for them. 

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Changing of the guard video 1
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Changing of the guards video 2
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Changing of the guards video 3
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We are very glad we were able to see this. 

The street scene in Lima was rather lively.  It was Sunday so many were out but with the Covid we are sure the numbers were down. 


Peruvian Hairless Dog








Next stop was Huaca Pucllana, a massive ancient clay brick pyramid in the middle of the city.  It was first built by the Lima culture somewhere between 400 and 700 AD, expanded by the Wari and Huari Cultures and eventually taken over and expanded by the Inca.  It is currently under a massive excavation project and much has been exposed.  But it is a massive pyramid and there is still a lot yet to be excavated.  







In some places they have discovered burial sites.  The dead were wrapped up in fetal position, with many layers of wrapping.  They were placed in holes in the pyramids along with goods they would need in the afterlife such as food.


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More Huaca Pucliana
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Then it was off to the Larco Herrera Museum and Gardens.  The gardens and building were absolutely breathtaking with bougainvillea, geraniums and may other flowering plants blooming profusely all over the grounds. 






When Rafael Lorca Hoyle (1901 - 1966) returned to Peru after studying abroad, he developed an interest in the ancient artifacts of Peru.  His interest turned into a passion that he passed on to his offspring who have continued collecting.  The collection, now 45,000 artifacts, is incredible.  And he purchased a gorgeous building expressly for housing his collection.  The museum is named after his father, Larco Herrera, who contributed much to the collection.

Peruvian archaeology was in its infancy and during his studies of his artifacts he eventually recognized many distinct cultures from various parts of Peru.  Based on these studies he developed the first Peruvian chronology of ancient Peruvian cultures that remains in use today.









One of the photos here is of a 3,000 year old tapestry that looks like it just came off the loom...such is the quality of this collection.

Another special feature of the museum is the storage vault.  Museums rarely allow visitors into the vaults containing the collection pieces that are not on display.  But we could tour the vaults and the collection is absolutely massive.  

What a great museum visit.  We know next to nothing about pre-Columbian art and artifacts but we both still really enjoyed this visit.

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More Larco Herrera Museum
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After the tour we were dropped off in Kennedy Park for lunch at a sidewalk restaurant.  Had a lovely lunch and then headed into the park where there were a lot of artists displaying their work  







Would loved to have bought some but we just have no wall space.  From there we found the hotel just fine and settled in to rest and work on photos.

Later in the evening we found a small place not far from the hotel and had a light dinner.  And we both had dessert.  Yummy.